Vehicles of Historical Interest (VHI): Substantial Change Guidance Most vehicles manufactured or first registered over 40 years ago will, as of 20 May 2018, be exempt from periodic testing unless they have been substantially changed1. Large goods vehicles (i.e. goods vehicles with a maximum laden weight of more than 3.5 tonnes) and buses (i.e. vehicles with 8 or more seats) that are used commercially will not be exempted from periodic testing at 40 years. A vehicle that has been substantially changed within the previous 30 years will have to be submitted for annual MoT testing. Whether a substantially changed vehicle requires re-registration is a separate process. Keepers of VHIs exempt from periodic testing continue to be responsible for their vehicle’s roadworthiness. Keepers of vehicles over 40 years old can voluntarily submit vehicles for testing. Keepers of VHIs claiming an exemption from the MoT test should make a declaration when renewing their vehicle tax. The responsibility to ensure the declared vehicle is a VHI and meets the criteria, rests with the vehicle keeper as part of their due diligence. If a vehicle keeper is not sure of the status of a vehicle, they can consult a marque or historic vehicles expert, a list of whom will be available on the website of the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs. If a vehicle keeper cannot determine that the vehicle has not been substantially changed, they should not claim an exemption from the MoT test. The criteria for substantial change A vehicle will be considered substantially changed if the technical characteristics of the main components have changed in the previous 30 years, unless the changes fall into specific categories. These main components for vehicles, other than motorcycles2, are: Chassis (replacements of the same pattern as the original are not considered a substantial change) or Monocoque bodyshell including any sub-frames (replacements of the same pattern as the original are not considered a substantial change); Axles and running gear – alteration of the type and or method of suspension or steering constitutes a substantial change; Engine – alternative cubic capacities of the same basic engine and alternative original equipment engines are not considered a substantial change. If the number 1 If the type of vehicle is still in production, it is not exempt from periodic testing. 2 Further arrangements for motorcycles may be introduced, including if core testing standards are considered further internationally. of cylinders in an engine is different from the original, it is likely to be, but not necessarily, the case that the current engine is not alternative original equipment. The following are considered acceptable (not substantial) changes if they fall into these specific categories: • changes that are made to preserve a vehicle, which in all cases must be when original type parts are no longer reasonably available; • changes of a type, that can be demonstrated to have been made when vehicles of the type were in production or in general use (within ten years of the end of production); • in respect of axles and running gear changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance; • in respect of vehicles that have been commercial vehicles, changes which can be demonstrated were being made when they were used commercially. In addition if a vehicle (including a motorcycle): • has been issued with a registration number with a ‘Q’ prefix; or • is a kit car assembled from components from different makes and model of vehicle; or • is a reconstructed classic vehicle as defined by DVLA guidance; or • is a kit conversion, where a kit of new parts is added to an existing vehicle, or old parts are added to a kit of a manufactured body, chassis or monocoque bodyshell changing the general appearance of the vehicle; it will be considered to have been substantially changed and will not be exempt from MOT testing. However if any of the four above types of vehicle is taxed as an “historic vehicle” and has not been modified during the previous 30 years, it can be considered as a VHI. This guidance is only intended to determine the testing position of a substantially changed vehicle, not its registration. How to declare a vehicle for the 40 year MOT exemption Vehicle keepers are required to ensure that their vehicles are taxed when used on a public road. From 20 May 2018, at the point of taxing a vehicle, the vehicle keeper can declare their vehicle exempt from MOT if it was constructed more than 40 years ago. When declaring an exemption, you will be required to confirm that it has not been substantially changed (as defined in this guidance). This process will be applied to pre-1960 registered vehicles, as well as newer vehicles in the historic vehicle tax class. If the vehicle does not have an MOT and you wish to continue using it on the public roads, you will have either to undergo an MOT or, if you wish exemption from the MOT, to declare that the vehicle is a VHI. If the vehicle has a current MOT certificate but you anticipate that on expiry of that certificate you will wish exemption from future MOTs you will at the time of relicensing be required to declare that the vehicle is a VHI. How to tax your vehicle in the historic vehicle tax class Where vehicle keepers first apply for the historic vehicle tax class, it must be done at a Post Office. If you are declaring that your vehicle is exempt from MOT, you will need to complete a V112 declaration form, taking into consideration the substantially changed guidelines, (as defined above). Further re-licensing applications, including making subsequent declarations that the vehicle does not require an MOT, can be completed online. Further advice on taxing in the historic vehicle tax class can be found via the following link: https://www.gov.uk/historic-vehicles
Photos sent in by Rolly Evans.
Ron Elenbaas and his 1915 Stanley Mountain Wagon...Best in Class at Amelia Island..
My friend is getting married in september, and i think it would be just wonderful for her themed wedding to have a steam-powered car to carry the soon to be newly weds to the venue. I was wondering if you all knew of any working steam-powered cars for rent in the olympia-tacoma area of washington state?
4 Stanley steam cars on the first run of the year
Cleaning cleaning cleaning. What a wondrous job an ultrasonic tank and citrinox does for cleaning this 100 year old stuff!! 2 more pump shaft to make and start assembling!
Not a ton of work but progress is progress. Chromed water pumps rods are fully assembled. Need a new fuel piston and support slider yet. And a bunch more cleaning.
The car hit some sunlight today! The dash went back in after the windshield frame repair a while ago. The kidney gauge is back installed. A bunch of things cleaned up and working on mounting the condenser to see how plumbing will fit. We are making progress now!
Billings Cooke Writes "Took a "field trip" with the local SACA chapter to the Orange Historical Society. Saw two Grouts and got a bit of information for Tilly."
George Hounslow recently test drove his 1901 Porter Stanhope around a local country estate, just after a complete restoration. Photos courtesy of Mary Gray.
The wire wheels on my 1921 Stanley 735 are in need of rebuilding later on this year. The problem I have encountered is that the row of spokes nearest the outside of the hub have an extension piece on them which appears to act as a safety device to stop the wheel nut coming loose. Has anyone got a spare spoke I can use as a pattern or 50 spokes preferably with nipples for purchase. Early cars I believe used a perforated strip to locate the latch so avoiding special spokes. Many thanks - Dudley Watts
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Wanted 1908 White L Driveshaft Universal Caps
Hi I'm looking for some (3x) of the caps that screw on the universal on the driveshaft of a Model L. They look like bottle caps but I think they are hardened to prevent the pins from working their way out. I can make some put just putting this out there as I have 1 but if someone has some it would save me a bit of time to get this back on the road let me know.
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Some details of the Bower Bell steam engine used in Chris Wedgwood's Steam Bike.
Billings Cooke Writes:
I stopped by the paint shop yesterday afternoon to check the progress on the Grout. I was pleased to find a fresh coat of black epoxy primer had been sprayed on. I'm pleased that the project is moving forward quickly at this point.
Hopefully, by the end of next week all of the black should be finished. Then it will be on to the red.
The Grout is loaded into my pickup truck for its short ride to the body shop.
Photos taken by Andy Morley of Butterfly Studios Norwich England.
Hi, I just wanted to let steam fans know that there is a U.S. company developing a steam-powered big rig (articulated lorry) and they also have plans to make some *modern* steam cars. You've probably heard that story before, but I'm excited about this one because they're not trying to reinvent the wheel. They're using 100-year old technology because there's nothing wrong with it. Their website is http://argusholdingco.com and you can find me on facebook at https://www.facebook.com/kyleborghini Thank you all
Billings Cooke Grout update, Sarah doing her bit to get it finished.
The London Classic Car Show
February 12 at 7:00pmThe first steam car to feature at #LCCS is up and running. This will be utterly brilliant to see coming down the Grand Avenue on Thursday-Sunday. A 1907 Stanley H4 Gentleman's Speedy Roadster, there can only be a handful of these globally! Get your tickets to see history in motion here - http://bit.ly/2z6JmG1
From Alesssandro D`Angelo
An unimotorcycle is the unholy combination of a motorcycle and a sled. It has one wheel, a few runners, and an absurdly powerful engine that propels the entire contraption across a frozen lake at breakneck speeds. Brakes? Pfft. They're an afterthought at best. All of which is to say, you have to be crazy to ride one.
I finally did a job on the Grout I have been dreading. The two 5/16 carriage bolts that hold the step plates to the main frame rail have to be drilled through a 1 inch thick by 4 in tall wooden rail. This rail is not Square as it flares out as it goes upward. My concern was how to insure the drill would track straight from top to bottom of the 4-inch wooden frame rail.
I made a quick drill jig out of a 1-inch thick block of aluminum and an aluminum plate. The holes I needed where drilled on center of the 1 " thick aluminum block with the correct center to center distance for the bolts to fit the step plates. When bolted to the plate and then clamped to the frame rail the holes would follow the angle of the frame rail top to bottom. I chose to drill from the bottom so it would be easier to get the chips out of the holes and would help to keep the drill tracking straight.
I'm very happy to say all four holes ended up just where I wanted from top to bottom. On both sides the carriage bolts pass through the steps and the 4" frame rail. I'm done for the day.
I also hung four, 4 foot LED shop lights to improve the lighting in my work area. It was a busy day.
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