Help Identifying engine
This engine has been floating around my family for many years. If memory serves me it has always been described as a Stanley Steamer engine.
Would like to know if anyone can give any specifics.
Many years ago (50 or 60) when I was younger my dad ran it with compressed air.
It's time for it to move on.
Thanks for any assistance..
Joe Fedullo has now produced a batch of new style Jets for Stanley type vapourising burners, which he describes below:
I have been playing with Jet designs and think I came up with something that might be better than what is currently available commercially. Take a look and let me know what you think.
Changes to the exit tip:
On the outside, the simple 3/8" hex is replaced with a smaller 5/16" hex that has a smooth taper down to the nozzle exit. The idea of the transition is to smooth flow of the entrained. Herb de la Porte has observed eddy currents around standard jets at the nozzle and this seems like a way to help rectify that. He also has a set of old jets he found somewhere that have a similar design. He lent me one I used to copy the head.
On the inside, I added a 5 degree taper at the exit of the inner hole to create a diverging nozzle. Since the flow is sonic and therefore choked, the diverging nozzle should allow further acceleration of the fuel flow and hopefully more air entrainment. I used about a 2:1 area ratio for the diverging nozzle assuming a #56 jet. With smaller jets, it will be a expanded a little more. I then added a 1/8" radius right at the exit after the taper to help the "pricker" find the hole, but hopefully these don't need to be pricked very often due to the changes in the backside of the jet
Even though I use the multi port jets from Vintage Steam, I have noticed when the rearward centre hole clogs, the flow goes way down even though there are 12 other holes for it to go through. A simple prick usually opens things right back up and I have never seen the radial holes clog when I remove the jets. I took some measurements and the diameter of the holy section of the current multiport jets is 0.196" and the drill for a 1/4-28 hole is 0.213 so there is only 0.0085" radial clearance for fuel flow. That gives about 0.0055 sq inch of area which is almost 4 times my # 57 jet area, (# 57 = 0.0015 sq inch) but empirically it doesn't flow when the back hole gets plugged. Maybe there is a boundary layer issue with such small clearances, or maybe carbon dust plugs up the circumference.
To help, I made several changes to the backside of the jet. First I reduced the minor diameter to 0.175". This should allow much more flow to get to the radial holes perpendicular to the main flow axis. The other big change was the addition of 6 holes on the tapered surface around the main rear hole. These holes are perpendicular to the chamfer pass through the axial hole and also open to the cylindrical surface. I would think these holes eliminate the need for the radial holes, but I started thinking they all converge at a single point which was a potential area for a blockage so I added a dozen radial holes as well. The back of this jet is now Swiss cheese...
It looks like a pretty tricky part to make, but my first preliminary quote came back at $10.06 each in a quantity of 100. Before I get deeper into the quoting process, I wanted to get feedback / see if you guys have any design change ideas. Also if anyone is interested in splitting up the order I can keep you posted as I work through the quote process.
I've made a couple of changes based on some great feedback, which I really appreciate. I will wait a couple more days for further feedback then send them out for production:
1) I've increased the length of the bullet shaped outer tip per feedback from Howard.
2) Changed the spacing of the holes perpendicular to the chamber at the fuel inlet, such that they all do not intersect at the same point giving a potential clog point. They are now in 2 arrays of 3 giving 2 intersection points.
3) All holes are now #66 which was the smallest size anyone I know uses. They can easily be drilled out to any larger size needed.
SEE FULL ARTICLE IN THE MAGAZINE ON THIS WEBSITE
Shame on the Steam car club of Great Britain
The committee of the steam Car Club of Great Britain all agree that your presence at any of its events as an entrant or guest would not be well received by a majority of its members. At this moment in time we are not willing to compromise on this decision and it is not open for debate.
Regards Harold Bell – chairman of the Steam Car Club of Great Britain.
The committee of the club continues to carry a 10 year vendetta against Basil Craske. Hiding behind the members.
Most if not all members are disgusted by the committee members who behave in such a way, not all committee members truly agree.
Through a bit of research I have brought myself to you,
I am looking at making my motorcycle (see photo) steam powered and would like to have a chat to someone in the know as to whether it is possible or not,
I am looking at the v twin steam engine but I am unsure on boiler size or water tank size that would be needed,
Can you assist or maybe be involved in the project?
This weekend's progress. Because it's my first attempt, I didn't get everflex/bison vinyl and opted for a UV treated vinyl on sale instead. It is much softer and super stretchy in comparison. And I recommend just getting the good stuff cause I have to compensate on a few things. I used a multipurpose adhesive spray to attach the lining material- I can now forget about securing the layers for the rest of the project. On the parts that were used as bracing or interfacing, I will be adding a layer of a heavy interfacing to combat the vinyl stretch. The back's 3 panels are complete minus hardware.
Simon Webb getting ready for the London to Brighton 2021
We regret to report that Brent Campbell, one of the most prominent members of the Steam Car Community, passed away on the 24th October, after a long illness. Brent had been around Stanleys since the early 1950's, when he rode in his grandfather George Monreau's (who had worked for the Stanley Factory) 1913 Model 65. A keen driver, Brent believed in using his car's rather than just displaying them; his first Stanley clocked more than 35,000 miles in the 13 years of his ownership. Indeed, in his Stanley model 85 he clocked 424 miles in one day, and regularly took part in the Trans Continental and Red Rock Tours.
He was an absolute authority on Stanleys, and was a great help to many Stanley Owners, always offering help, as well as historical information. Indeed, his contribution to the Stanley Steamer Book, written by Kit Foster,and produced by the Stanley Museum, was invaluable.
Brent was not a person who believed in the brake pedal. In 2006, the Buick Hot Rod he owned crashed when a rear tyre blew, throwing the car firstly into the central reservation, then back across the highway to the nearside followed by five somersaults, destroying the car. Brent suffered multiple injuries in addition to three vertebrae in his spine needing to be frozen together. After a long rehabilitation period, Brent was back driving his Stanleys.
Brent had a great collection of steamers over the years, including a Stanley CX (sadly lost at the bottom of the Atlantic after taking part in the centenary of the London to Brighton Veteran Car Run, when the container ship broke in two), a Stanley Model K, a Stanley Model 74, a Stanley 731, Stanley 82 and Stanley 85. But perhaps the cars he is known best for are the two Raymond Stanley Specials he owned, Effie, a 1911 30HP Roadster, and a 1912 30HP Roadster, the latter a painstaking multi year recreation by Brent.
With Brent, alot of Stanley and Steam Car information passes. He will be sadly missed.
Images in slideshow above courtesy of Wumf Tuxworth.
Bill Barnes writes:
Drilling and Tapping a Stanley Boiler.
By code you shouldn't drill into the weld ..
As shown in pictures
I try to stay away from the tubes as much as possible..
You run the pipe tap in a little over half way on the tap and check it to your fittings .
I never use bronze or copper fittings in the boiler..
Steel on steel is the best ..
Pipe tap chart below .
Burt Hermey writes:
Yesterday the Stanley's engine/rear axle assembly came home from the brake shop. It's now sporting two new disc brakes in place of the old band brakes.
Today begins the process of reinstalling it. Lots of little things to remember along the way!
Once in the car the engine will get a bath of Gunk, then the crankcase cover will be installed (with new gasket, of course!)
Steam Car Enthusiasts,
I wanted to reach out and announce the 2021 Midwest Steam Car Tour. We are shifting the tour days slightly from past tours. We will be touring starting on Saturday September 11th and the final tour day is Thursday September 16th 2021. The tour is based out of Cedar Rapids, IA and the host hotel is The Hotel at Kirkwood. You can book your stay at the hotel by calling 319-848-8700 or toll free at 877-751-5111 and ask for the Midwest Steam Car Tour block. The hotel only has a little over 70 rooms but has a very large parking lot for trailers. We hope you will join us for a nice roads tour. More details to follow. We are excited to see everyone out touring again.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me by email or phone below.
The 2021 Eastern Steam Car tour is underway, with the first two days having taken place. Photos courtesy of Billings Cooke, Sarah Moon, Herb de la Porte, Steve Bragg, and Mark Turner.
Burt Hermey writes:
The engine and rear axle are out of the Stanley, and will be heading to the brake shop tomorrow. Here it's hanging on the garage hoist.
Well after an eventful start to the weekend with the Range Rover developing a boost leak and the trailer getting a flat tyre, I finally got to George Hounslow's house for some work on the Nelson!
Ever since I have owned the car, it hasn't steamed well. It has been very lazy raising steam and once running it was very unreliable at re-lighting often causing blowbacks and fires the wrong side of the burner plate.
George and Peter worked all weekend to clear the fuel system and generally check over the whole car. I am chuffed to say it is now running incredibly well and looks like it generates steam very well. Next job is to get a steam test and I can take it for some proper test drives on the road.
I had previously cleaned out the fuel tank (Thinking this was the cause of the issue) but had overlooked the fuel pressure vessel! Turns out this was full of rusty, sludgy gunk! It was this gunk that kept blocking the entire system.
I cannot thank George and his family enough (Peter Hounslow & Sarah Hounslow) for making me feel so welcome and being so generous with their help, guidance, time & delicious food haha. I have learnt so much this weekend and look forward to many more weekends like it. This is what being part of the Steam Community is all about.
Mason #1 Steam Car Engine, photos, help?
Here sending some photos of a Mason #1 engine that I "restored" a few years back. It was partially disassembled, but had virtually every last original bolt and screw, missing only the main crankshaft drive sprocket. It had suffered a major cylinder head cap failure at some point, and two of the valve eccentric rods were slightly bent.
I had every intention of restoring it to working condition, at least enough to get it going on compressed air, but as things progressed it became obvious that I could not meet that goal. So, instead I fitted it with 1/4 inch plexiglass plates on the valve chest and one cylinder (cutaway effect, I suppose). Gave it a snappy colour scheme, and was pretty happy with the results, as a nice display.
Early on, I was able to identify it as a brass-frame 2 1/2 by 3 1/2 bore Mason # 1, as every detail matched the 1902 Mason catalogue. But my efforts to find more information about its exact age, and what car it might have come from, have been frustrating (sound familiar?). Most of what I have read comes from a variety of forum postings, some of which are inconsistent, etc.
Recently I came across the posts here from Billings Cooke about his Grout restoration, and was interested to see that his engine appears to match mine in every detail (aside from the Grout-marked valve chest cover), and is thus also a Mason #1. I am however aware that Mason supplied engines to a number of makers, and have heard that they would assign serial numbers according to whatever the buyers wanted.
My engine bears serial # 1008. Does anyone have any information about when this engine might have been made, and/or what car it might have come from? Also, how many makers used Mason #1 engines? As far as I know there was Stanley, Locomobile, Mobile, and apparently Grout. Surely there must have been more, but maybe those details are now long-lost to history.
Amy comments appreciated, this is a wonderful site for all manner of steam car information. I could post some more photos of my little engine if anyone is interested.... Thanks! - Greg
Tilly's grand adventure
In the few opportunities we had to steam Tilly at the end of last summer I was concerned about consumption of steam. With a little bit of time still available before steam car season will start I decided to take a good hard look at Tilly's engine. The bottom end of the engine has been beautifully reworked several years ago.
I noticed that all packing glands, both piston rod and valve rods were very loose. Solution, to repack them. That's normal maintenance. On the other hand I found a loose nut on the bottom of a piston rod. The Piston rod was free to turn. This needed to be fixed before the engine would run again. The other glaring problem where the bushings in the beautifully cast bronze frame that the pump drive arms run in. They needed attention, badly.
Yesterday I removed the engine, took me about an hour and a half to 2 hours. I decided to do more investigations took the valve chest cover off to look at the slide valves. They are in very good condition. I then removed both upper cylinder covers. Upon measuring the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder bore, I found the piston that had the loose nut on the bottom of the Piston rod had moved about .035. after cleaning the threads in the Piston rod I reset the Piston height. Once I had piston heights the same I used red Loctite on the nut and retightened the nut that secures the Piston rod itself. Job number one complete.
The repair of the pump arm pivot bushing is now underway. I made a very quick extractor with a piece of quarter 20 threaded rod and some odd pieces I had in the shop so that I could extract the bushing without having to hammer on it. The tool may not look like much but it did the job very easily. So still around stock has been ordered so I can fabricate and fit the two new replacement bushings.
We have at last started the restoration of the Morris 1000 Pick-up. the vehicle was manufactured in 1972 and converted to steam power in 1975. we are not sure it was ever finished and driven. most likely it was not. we will do a full article for the magazine later when we have finished . Lets hope it is a sucess.
The Baker boiler.
Today I finished the pressure vessel. I still need to design a firebox or base to mount it on.
I finished it without the cleanout system as I went by the drawing I had.
A friend sent me the drawing back in 2013. I was unable to find more details on it but finely decided to go ahead as I needed a project to keep busy.
There is one measurement on the drawing of twenty-two inches. Using that as a scale the pipe sizes are estimated to be
The main drum 4 inch pipe size about 4-1/2”
The out side riser 1-3/4 inches
The bottom two coils 2 inches about 20 feet
The six coils above that 1-1/4 about 200 feet total
The 12 superheated coils one inch of 170 feet
The 6 economizer coils one inch of 85 feet.
The bottom diagonal pipe two inches about 20 inches long
This is just a rough estimate. It would be nice to know if the casing is off a boiler. What the actual pipe sizes are.
Attached are a few of the final photos of the pressure vessel and the drawing I went by.
I started work on building a model of the Baker boiler. I have had some plans for several years, but was reluctant to start as some photos I had were different then the drawings. I am not sure if they were all built the same. The Patent drawings show a cleanout system to blow the tubes inside the drum and the only construction drawing shows no system on the top of the drum, just a welded top plate. I know there are about three Stanley’s running and using a Baker boiler but I have seen none without the casing on.
Have you seen one striped down? Or do you have any photos of one striped down with no casing.
An all day project, and the last fitting of the night determined if it'd be complete tonight or not. Aaaannnnddd, not. Another hour, maybe two to adjust the boot across the seatback and add an inch wide expansion panel so the eyes aren't tight across the seat. Just a little curve ball the red doesn't have as much give as the onyx. But I do have the onyx boot cut out and ready to head to the upholstery shop for a dye job. We simply don't have the work space needed with everything in it's winter home.
Onyx is looking more like chocolate once close to black. First vinyl fitting of Tilly's boot. Some fitting issues around the Victoria brackets and bow arms. I'll use this copy as a pattern for the final.
Check out this video of Bill Lloyd talking through and firing up his 1924 Doble E11 Steam Car.
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