Part three of the Mountain wagon rebuild.
During the 400 kilometers I have gained a lot of experience with the Mountain wagon.
The car was finished with a few details left to do, but these details were of great importance. During the journeys the throttle sometimes squeezed which made giving gas very difficult. I had made the throttle rod too short and throttle unit was engineered too tight. Now I have moved the throttle unit and extended the distance of the rod by approximately 8 cm.
The cylinders were not yet isolated. A job that I kept pushing back because I didn't know how to make the copper casing. The insulation has now been applied. This makes a big difference in use.
The water pump also did not always work properly. The check balls were worn. I replaced them with new balls and now it works properly..
To be able to check the operation of the pumps while driving, I temporary placed a pressure gauge between the water pipe on advise from another steam car driver. You can now see exactly whether the pumps work well during the ride.
At the front, I have provided the blow-off valves with thicker brass spouts. This is only an aesthetic choice.
The only adjustment that I am going to do this season is the application of disc brakes on the front wheels. Not beautiful, but effective. The hills in Melle were sometimes a challenge. Uphill - even with a 20 ph motor - is no problem. But to go downhill safely I had to use the handbrake occasionally and even then a emergency stop would be a challenge
After spraying I applied the pin strips with a Buegler pin striper.
The MW has a 30 HP boiler which is made by the Goolds. This boiler produces enough steam for this car
The pump pit is placed in the same place as with the 735. For the steam oil I use a Madisson Kipp lubricator.
To transport the MW, I bought a closed box trailer that fits the car exactly.
In order to be able to get on the road legally with the MW, it was inspected by the national road traffic department.
This is always an exciting moment because you never know the outcome of the research because it is a special project. But still we managed to inspect the car within a day.
I have now driven the first kilometers. I had made the connecting rod of the water pump too light. This broke off almost immediately. I am also still looking for the right adjustments from the burner. I am listening to every strange sound I hear while driving. And there are a lot of them. After every trip I get more used to the car. The boiler maintains good pressure and the fuel system also functions properly. After every ride I come across small things that are easy to solve.
Building this car was a nice adventure. I have met nice people and learned a lot.
The MW will be shown for the first time during the Melle steam event 2019
Roel Rasker recreates a 1915 Stanley Mountain Wagon.
After the restoration of my Stanley EX in 2017, I was looking for a new project.
The choice soon fell on a mountain wagon. These cars have always had my interest, since my first meeting with Peter Williams's mountain car at the Dorset Steam fair a few years ago.
First I started looking for an original mountain car. Because these were not available, or too expensive, I decided to build one myself. My preference was initially for a 1909 model with a wooden chassis with 3 benches.
To be able to drive the car in the Netherlands, however, I had to work with an existing old Stanley chassis. Otherwise it was not possible to get it road legal in the Netherlands
That's why I decided to go for a 1915 model on a 735 chassis. It was important that I could find an old chassis whose restoration to the original model was not possible.
In England on steamcarnetwork website I found a 735d chassis with chassis number. This was a great start to a big new project.
I could also buy a 20 HP engine in England. With this I already had a solid foundation. In the future I might replace this engine for a 30 hp engine but first I want to see if the engine is strong enough.
I had set aside 2 years for this project. But by working full time on it, I succeeded in half a year.
I did a size study on the basis of photos of a 1915 MW, which in my opinion was quite original, after which I made a dummy body with a bench in plywood.
These sizes were pretty good and with some minor adjustments I started producing the MW. Because this is a reproduction I naturally had some freedom to build the car the way I want. Among other things, more space between headboard and first seat, exchangeable seats, and a fixed propane gas tank for the pilot light. I also preferred copper gas lamps instead of electric lamps. The floor is completely flat so that the car can also be used as a pickup
The convertible top is made of curved ash arches. The rest of the frame is made from various existing parts. An upholsterer has covered the convertible top and also provided the leather upholstery of the four seats.
I had the bonnet and the fenders made at Vintage Wings in England. The fenders were perfect.
I still had a lot of work on the hood. The company could not make the louvres. That is why I made a steel mold and punch with which I could apply the louvres manually.
Pumps, Tanks & Small Parts
I am making this the last topic, I think there is enough posted to give anyone a very good over-view of what it takes to build a car, or start this type of project.
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\1906 -07 pumps with 1908 drive.jpgphotoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\axle jacking block-1.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\axle jacking block-2.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\die for clamp-a.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\engine blow down valve.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Engine driven water Pump 1909 Machineing Dr.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\engine hanger strap.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Fuel Pump bottom fed.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Fuel System EX.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Hand operated Pump .jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\High Pressure Valves.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\low water alarm.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Main steam elebow-1.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Off set link.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\pump drive bearing.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Pump drive with no Hookup.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Reverse Hook up Pedal.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Siphon and pickup head .JPG
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Throttle quadrant .jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Throttle quadrant Handle .jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Through Dash Valves.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Through Dash Valves-M dwg.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\water tank fill cap.jpg
The EX Body
I had the opportunity to purchases the body of the EX from Louis Biondi now deceased.
He and his brother had built quite a few different models Stanley bodies from original bodies he had acquired. Most of these bodies were built over thirty years ago and were finished into complete running cars and are still in the family collection.
The original EX body is still in a storage trailer at the family estate, two far gone to restore into a finished car. I had the opportunity to go over it in detail and do several drawings and was allowed to bring the floorboard with the foot rest home for a more detailed copy for pattern work of the footrest. My EX body is as good and accurate copy as could be duplicated.
Photo of the body as received was the start of a four-year project, and learning experience of Stanley cars in general and a very detailed study of the model EX.
The body required replacement of some wood do to dry rot but in general was in very good condition. I had to build the base of the front seat. The original would have been a single seat. I built it as a two-cushion seat as the left hand side is the access to the water tank. I also had to build the entire back seat and all the hardware for the railing. I built most of all the metal parts and hardware for the car; we will get into those later.
photoalbum\rolly\body\Body side view.jpgphotoalbum\rolly\body\Body side with rear door.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\buy pass bracket.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Cross member under Dash.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Emg brake latch bar.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Emg brake bar-1.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\EX Frame flooring.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\EX Frame only.jpgphotoalbum\rolly\body\Fenders.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Fire wall side.jpgphotoalbum\rolly\body\Hood latch -2.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Rear door.jpgphotoalbum\rolly\body\Rear latch.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Rear seat hardware.jpgphotoalbum\rolly\body\Rear seat hardware-2.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\body\Water glass fitting.jpg
The Boiler and Burner
The boiler is quite straightforward, designed with the ASME code in mind. The shell is rated 2500 PSI busting pressure well above the code’s 3.5 times working pressure. The heads are SA-516 grade 70 and are 3/8 inch thick per the minimum allowed for boilers less then 42 inches in diameter. The welding is PW-16.1 (a)The welded assembly was stress relived after welding. After tubing it hydro at 1000 PSI for well over eight hours.
The burner I cast in ductile iron and drilled it with 4000 holes. The venturi tubes are oversize from the original of 1-1/4 to 1-1/2. The vaporizer and pilot, burner, nozzle are as the original and the fuel is as original gasoline.
The water level indicator is of my own design and was incorporated into a Stanley type gauge. Modern but very reliable and accurate. The Stanley EX originally used the bucket type level indicator.
The operation of this boiler is manual for feed water, except for the steam pressure regulator that turns the burner fuel on and off.
Springs, U-Bolts & Hardware
This was a main concern of mine. From all the information I could gather the springs should be 1-3/8 inch’s wide. I was unable to locate any manufacture of springs of this size. 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 were available. I decided on going with the 1-1/4 springs and I would add an extra leaf.
The Stanley springs are unique in the shape from what is on the market. Each leaf would have to be re-cut and re-arched. The main spring ends would also have to be reworked to give it the shape of the Stanley end. To do this a thick washer was obtained from the spring supplier with the square hole already punched. These washers had to be welded to each side on both ends and added weld material and grinding was needed to get the desired shape.
I ordered six springs so as to have four extra long leafs and some spare leafs if I mess some up in reworking them.
Each leaf had tapered ends both in width and thickness and had to have about three inches cut of both ends and reshaped to a round radius and tapered in thickness.
Each leaf also had to be re-arched; this was done cold by hand using a template.
About six inch in from one end a tab was welded on the underside of each leaf and ground to a little knife edge protruding down. A corresponding groove was ground into the leaf directly under it. This keeps the leaf from moving off to one side. The early cars did not have the tabs on the sides of each leaf.
I still need to make new bolts with a larger radius on each end to match the original.
This work took a little over a month to complete. I would not want to do it again.
Front axle details
CAD Drawings in JPEG
photoalbum\rolly\axle\4.5 BC Stanley Front hub as machined.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Perch pole and spring casting.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Perch rod end.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Spindle Pin and Parts.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Stanley Hub Cap.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Tie rod ends & small parts.jpg
EX Rear Axle
The rear end as built was modified slightly from the original. I have included the drawing as was original, and as modified.
The axle ends were modified and built with five inch tapered keyed ends, and the drums were made to accept them. The bearing are deep grooved sealed ball bearings and are arranged so when the wheel is installed, tension and preload is applied to both the inner and outer bearing. No side thrust from the wheel is against the planetary gears. The gears used are original.
The inner brake band cleaves and bolt was modified per the drawing so as to facilitate the ease of adjustment. The outer brakes originated in 1907 and I modified them by bonding brake lining material to the bronze shoes. All castings are 85-55-06 ductile, the axle tube is 3/16 - 4130 and the axles are 4140. The front axle is the same except for the spindle castings; they are A-148 structural steel 110,000 Tensile and 90,000 Yield and have tapered rollers for bearings.
CAD Drawings in JPEG
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\4.5 BC Stanley rear hub with Drum.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\4.5 BC Stanley rear modified drum.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake bands modified .JPG
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake cam actuator rod.jpg
CAD drawings in JPEG
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake cam actuator rod.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\cross brace casting.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Modified axle end.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Modified brake band attachment bolt.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Modified Brake cleave as built.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Outside brake shoe.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle assamble-a.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle end Hub.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle yoke spacers.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle parts.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle yoke spacers.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear Perch pole and spring casting pattern.jpg