18. If the factory White engineers were so clever why did they design an engine whose water pumps leak into the crankcase?

Ans. The question infers a design flaw which, if the correct, original style White packing is used in the pumps, does not exist. Most restorers today do not seem to understand the various types of packing and their proper application. Like everything else on your White, packing is important. 

While graphite/asbestos, braided, square cross section packing is correct for the piston rods, valve rods and throttle, it most certainly is not to be used in the water pumps. Asbestos shrinks in the presence of water. Thus, the pumps leak no matter how tight the packing glands. The proper packing for the water pumps is flax (or hemp) which expands in the presence of water. 

19. Why is round style, rope packing not suitable for use in steam car glands? 

Ans. Because when compressed, the round rope binds and will not properly compress inside the gland. Packing should always be square cross section, cut into rings of proper length, installed one at a time with plenty of oil, the open ends staggered so each will not be on top of one another, and the open ends bevel-cut. 

20. Why is it so important to smear a lot of oil on to packing rings prior to installing them? 

Ans. Packing rings installed bone dry usually tear quickly, then leak. Did you expect oil as if  by magic, to leap inside that tight gland? As my dear Dad said: " There is a distinct difference between an optimist and a fool."

To be continued. ​

3. Assuming no leaks, correct burner nozzle for the fuel used, and all other regulators in factory condition, is the hole size in the flowmotor water by-pass important while driving at 15mph?

Ans. At that speed, probably not. The Flowmotor Piston will not have travelled far enough to open the by-pass.

4. Same as no.3, above, except the car is going 30mph?

Ans. Now the flowmotor piston has travelled its full one inch and the by-pass is open. If the by-pass hole orifice has been tampered with, the steam temperature will either climb or go down, depending upon whether the hole is too small or too large.

5. Assuming the flowmotor orifice is the correct factory size, at 30mph what other factor can cause the temperature to drop?

Ans. If the driver is heavy-handed, opening the throttle too quickly so as to accelerate the car rapidly, ANY monotube steam generator will draw cooler steam from the inlet side of its coils. Even so, the White system, if set properly, is good enough to correct this temporary situation in a few city blocks. 

If it does not do so, assuming other controls are correctly set, then either the burner nozzle holes are too small or the grade of fuel is too light. (It goes without saying that a plugged vapouriser or plugged nozzle holes will cause the same problem).

To put it another way, for whatever the reason, if the temperature stays down at 30mph, there simply is insufficient fire for the amount of water being admitted to the coils. The fire will also be on most of the time. ( The answer to question 4 also applies here).

Thus, it can be seen that flowmotor by-pass hole size, type of fuel, type of vapouriser, and burner nozzle hole size are all tied together when driving at high speed. 

6. Are the grooves milled into the thermostat copper rod important?

Ans. Yes. They increase the total area of copper exposed to the steam and thus, reduce the response time. When the system is calling for a correction, it is desirable to have the input from the thermostat quickly. Leave off the milled grooves and you will have a sluggish thermostat and, wandering temperature.

7. At 30mph the temperature holds close to 750F. But, driving around town at 15-20mph it slowly climbs up and overheats, causing the driver to have to shut off the main burner fuel valve. What should be checked first? The Thermostat or Flowmotor?

Ans. Flowmotor. If the thermostat were the culprit then the temperature would not have held as it did at 30mph. At slow speeds, the Flowmotor does most of the temperature controlling. And, if the temperature slowly rises, re-read what I said about Flowmotors earlier on in this letter. 

There are, of course, other things that can cause slow speed overheat and I mentioned a few of these earlier. 

8. The White Steam Car is said to have a "modulating" fire. That is; low fire at slow speed and high fire at high speed. Why is it important that a man tuning up his White understands what the "modulating" fire accomplishes?

Ans. Until he does understand, he probably will never get done tuning up his car. At age 95, he will still be playing with the Thermostat! 

The point to comprehend is this: At slow speeds, the water pumps deliver insufficient water​ to the generator for the amount of heat available. The Flowmotor offsets this fact by reducing the amount of fire. Besides, a big fire is not needed when going slow. It saves fuel too.

However, when going fast, the pumps deliver too much water for the amount of total fire available. The Flowmotor offsets this by by-passing some it back to the reservoir. Understanding the "modulating" fire idea and how Rollin White's Flowmotor made it all possible, is the real secret to tuning up a White Steam Car...

9. When the steam pressure hits 550 PSI, the red fire needle is slow about dropping off to zero. Will this cause steam overheat?

Ans. It is a primary cause. That needle should drop rapidly, bounce a few times, then die. Even at a mere 5-15psi, the needle hanging in there too long surely does cause overheat. 

Neither time nor space permit me to go into all the causes of "Dragging Fire". Besides, both your owner's manual and Edmonson's booklet cover it adequately. I will say the first thing to check is the Finnegan Pin screen in the water regulator. It must be kept clean in order to allow water to by-pass quickly once the Finnegan Pin opens.

10. When the car sits overnight, air pressure in the fuel tanks bleeds off. What is the cause?

Ans. Assuming all the air line unions don't leak and the lead washers inside the fuel caps and air compressor are good, the only place air can bleed off is through the the leather faced check valve or, around the rivetted head on the air compressor poppet valve. I've found it a good idea to put a little solder on top the rivet head on the topside of the poppet valve. The leather washer in the check valve is only good for a year and because it too is rivetted, replacing it on the road can be a chore. Best thing to do when one has this little valve apart is drill and tap a small threaded hole in the stem, then use a small screw to hold the washer in place. Next time one needs to replace the washer, simply remove the screw. I use NEOPRENE instead of leather as it lasts longer. ​

The first car ever to ascend Pike’s Peak was a 1901 Locomobile just like mine. When I learned the 50th anniversary of this event was going to be re-created, I took my car out and climbed the mountain with a friend, Sam Arnholz, doing the driving. Since then, many antique car clubs have copied what I did. Since those days I have gone on to purchase another Doble, two more model “O” Whites, a 1909 model “M” White, a 1926 SV Stanley, a 1909 20HP model “R” Stanley, and now, the 1908 model “K” White.
I did not have much of an education…but am self-educated. Travelling all over the world as a TWA Captain helped a great deal. And, owning eleven steam cars has taught me a little something about them!
Trouble is, just because I have owned and operated so many steamers, some people get the idea I am a “Steam Car Expert”. Well, for their information I never thought of myself as an expert by any means. On the other hand, wouldn’t I be rather stupid if I had not learned a little something about steamers along the way? After having burned my fingers so many times and making as many mistakes as I have, whatever level of knowledge I possess comes from raw experience. Kind of like the hill billy who had eighteen kids before he was forty years old. When they asked him whether or not he considered himself a good father, he replied: “I’m still learnin’”.
My background training in systems & controls and later, in computers, was provided over the years in various TWA pilot training seminars. Plus, some highly complicated ground school classes. This in turn helped me to understand how steam car regulating systems should work. And, having owned so many of the critters, driven them as much as I have, (I have just ordered a third set of tyres for the Doble), I am a fairly good shade tree mechanic.
The White Steam Cars after 1906 had a different control system (with Flowmotor) and this system was referred to by the company as “New Regulation”. Doble Steam Motors Corp. took this system and improved upon it. Were I to add up all the hours of study I have spent in researching these two systems, I could have been a brain surgeon! What’s more, when it comes to White, I seem to be just like the hill billy-I’m still learnin’! Just last Saturday a thing happened I had never encountered previously. I was amazed…
All of this brings me around to the point of this letter. Sometimes guys write asking for my advice. I take time to sit down and give it as best I can. When I later find out their White does not run well because my advice was not heeded, it bothers me. You chaps don’t always listen so good- go right ahead doing all the wrong things or, do not do the right things. If you are not going to follow my recommendations, then why waste my time and your time by asking for my advice? If you are going to modernise, improve, innovate, and alter your White, then it is impossible for me to be of any help at all!
The reason I cannot help when you modify your White is quite easy to see. My fund of White knowledge lies solely within the scope of factory specifications. I do understand those specs. But when you alter components the White Company engineered so very carefully and with great precision, you throw into the system new factors and thus, create problems which neither I nor anyone else can diagnose. Point is, the “New Regulation” has more than enough variables to deal with without complicating matters by adding to them. I say again (and I don’t mean to sound like a smart-Aleck), if you want to alter your White, then don’t write asking for my advice.
Having said this, let me tell you that back in 1946 when I got that first model “O”, it took me three years to get the regulating system working properly. Once I succeeded, I shouted for joy. I felt like the first chap who climbed Mt. Everest. Several times I became so discouraged I nearly gave up. When I finally hit upon the right combination, I could scarcely believe my eyes. The steam temperature gauge needle stuck at the 12 o’clock position as if it was welded there, with very small, normal excursions. And it has been the same with every White I have owned. Although I will say the model “M” presented a few new problems-behaviours I had never encountered before.
Here are a few suggestions-some things to check:

1. Many of the Flowmotors were left with a little water inside and at some time, froze. The cylinder only has to expand a few thousandths of an inch. Then water slips past the piston. This in turn, upsets the control system. That piston should be a snug fit for at least one inch.
2. The Flowmotor fuel stem is ground so that no fuel can pass until the steam has travelled maybe 3/16”. During that distance the portion of the steam just below the head fits very snugly in a removeable bushing. The idea is that even though the head has lifted off the seat, no fuel can get to the burner until the stem travels still further. This permits the water to “lead” the fuel and prevents overheat at slow speed. Remove the bushing and make sure it is not a sloppy fit around the stem. If it is, machine a new bushing.
3. Your Owner’s Manual specifies the exact amount the balls in the check valves should lift. If there is too much or too little lift, or if one or more of the removeable seats is loose in the pump casting, this will upset the regulation system and cause temperature problems. Remember there is very little water in a White Steam Generator at any given time. Thus, the amount of water must be very accurately controlled if one wishes to have a steady temperature. Too little water causes overheat and too much water causes the temperature to drop.

The White, therefore, will tolerate absolutely no water leaks nor check valve leaks. Leaky water pump glands, safety valve, throttle, water cushion, etc., cause temperature variation.
 

1. Remove the tank return line off the side of the water regulator. Make sure the steam pressure is below 550psi and idle the engine. If the Finnegan Pin seats properly, no water should dribble from the return line fitting. If the pin leaks the regulation is upset. Same thing if the pin has insufficient lift. Your owner’s manual specifies the correct amount of lift for this pin.
2. Any continuous steam leak such as, for example, the throttle, upsets the temperature. With so little water in the coils, the White cannot tolerate steam leaks.
3. Remember, your Flowmotor spring has been sitting for seventy years in a compressed condition. It may have lost its proper tension. To date, no one has been able to find the exact factory specs on this spring.

 
The book says to run the fuel stem up snug, then turn it “five more turns”. I have had a couple of cars where I had to run it up six or more turns to account for an old, weak spring.
 
In summation, I have always said that a White Steam Car will make an utterly honest man out of it’s owner. It will not tolerate any sort of modification. The White Company engineering was truly marvellous, considering it was done back in the blacksmith era. Burner nozzle hole size, the grind on the Flowmotor fuel pin, the lift on the balls in the check valves, water pump plunger diameter, lift of the Finnegan Pin, size of the Finnegan Pin hole, taper on the thermostat water valve pin and the diameter of the hole it fits into, the depth of the channel in the cylinder wall of the Flowmotor and its relationship with the piston, total length of the passages inside the fuel vapouriser for the type of fuel being used (White made several different vapourisers) , diameter of hole in the Flowmotor water bypass…. Any of these items not set to factory specs will upset steam temperature control. They all must be just right!
And, until you get them Just Right you will never enjoy your White Steam Car. When you finally do, you will enjoy your car more than any other you have owned or driven. For the White is a totally unique machine, quite unlike any other antique car, including the Stanley. You will also have a sense of pride and of accomplishment no other antique car owner can understand, unless he too is a White owner. Lastly, you will become one of a select few people on this earth. To date, there are fewer than six men operating a White successfully, day in and day out. We lost one of the great ones when A.B. McInnes of Australia died. If any man could make a White run, it was purely he. Drove his “O” regularly, even to work, plus thousands of miles of touring. On one tour he broke the water pump drive arm, stayed up all night, removed the arm without removing the engine (try it sometime!), welded the arm, put it back in the engine just as the sun rose and in time for that day’s tour! Some kind of a guy McInnes was-truly an expert. ​

As a rule it will be found that after the car has once been used the boiler will fill itself quite full from the water tank as it cools down, but it is advisable to try whether this is the case by pumping a few strokes with the hand pump until pressure shows in the steam gauge. 
There are two drain cocks under the condenser, and it is generally advisable to allow these to remain open whilst the car is in the motor house, so that any oil which collects in the exhaust pipe may be drained off, but it is not absolutely necessary that this should be done. These cocks should be closed before the car moves off. 
The engine should be started very gradually in order to enable the water to get out of the cylinders without cutting the packing. After driving very slowly for the first few yards, the pace may be gradually put on up to eight or ten miles an hour, and the car should be driven at this pace for half a mile or so, so that the whole of the boiler coils and the asbestos casing surrounding the boiler may both get warmed up. Until this is the case the boiler will not make steam freely, but once it is warmed up it will remain sufficiently warm so long as the sub-burner is kept alight. This first half mile of driving at a slow pace is usually occupied in bringing the car round from the car house to the owner's dwelling, and advantage should be taken to pump a little extra oil into the cylinders through the oil pump at the driver's right hand, at this time keeping the exhaust open to the air instead of passing through the condenser. After about a mile of running the exhaust bypass can be closed, and the whole of the steam passed through the condenser during the rest of the run. Afterwards it is only necessary to give one stroke of the oil pump every five miles or so. The driver will find that the boiler begins to make steam freely and the car to develop its full rate of speed of about twenty minutes after first starting. 
The writer believes the best results can be obtained from these cars by driving them at an average steam pressure approximating to 220lb. The pointer of the steam gauge will then travel between 180lb. and 250lb., the boiler will take water whenever the steam drops to 220lb. In this way the maximum economy in the use of water and petrol can be obtained. It is not found necessary to work at a pressure higher than 250lb. unless for exceptional hill climbing. 
Whenever the car is running for long distances on down grade, it is advisable to turn off the main burner so that the steam pressure does not accumulate. If this is not done so that the pressure falls below 220lb., no water will be pumped into the boiler during this part of the run, which is desirable if, as is generally the case, a rising gradient has to be dealt with immediately afterwards.
When, again, the car is stopped in traffic or at a stopping place always turn off the main burner, for although this will be done automatically by the thermostat, the pressure will rise sufficiently to cause the safety valve to blow, which is always objectionable in traffic on account of the noise it makes, and with reasonable care this need never be necessary.
The handle of the throttle valve is removable, and should be always taken off after the throttle is shut tight and before the driver leaves the car. He should carry the handle in his pocket. 
In order to get the best results, the writer finds that is is of importance that the vapouriser should be occasionally examined, as it is liable to get partly-choked with carbon deposit in the course of a few months running. It is an easy matter to remove the vapouriser and to clean out the carbon deposit, by drilling out the passages with drills provided for the special purpose. 
Another point worthy of attention is to see that the water regulator does not leak. This can be easily seen by uncoupling the union which connects the by-pass valve to the water tank. There should be no water escaping from the by-pass so long as the pressure is below 220lb. Directions are given with the car explaining how the water regulator should be set to ensure this. After several months of running, this water regulator valve is liable to require regrinding, but this is a very easy matter.
As regards lubrication, the writer has found that in the form of car that he has been using, which is not enclosed from dust and mud, it is advisable to use the graphite grease supplied by the Dixon Crucible Company. This is forced into all the revolving bearings of the crankshafts, eccentrics, etc. It will be found to work well in dust and mud, and the bearings will run thousands of miles without any attention. For lubricating the slides, link motion, and the upper pin joints, it is convenient to use the same oil that is used in the cylinders, which, in the writer's case, has been "Extra Hecla" supplied by the Vacuum Oil Company. The cylinder oiling arrangements are very simple. They consist of a small pump fitted inside a lubricating tank close to the driver's right hand. This tank holds enough oil for 150 miles run, but the writer has tried, with very satisfactory results, a positive pump worked by the motion of the engine itself. This was supplied by Captain A.D. Furze, and is called the Pony lubricator, and has given excellent results. 
Once the driver is accustomed to the manipulation of the White car, and to the best methods of manipulating the burner and water feed, a speed of twenty-five miles an hour may be easily maintained on roads having a fair surface; and it will be noticed that at this rate of speed the car raises less dust than any car that the writer has yet seen, running at the same speed and using tyres of the same size. This is possibly due to the considerable clearance for the passage of air underneath the car. As in this car the main axle is 15 in. from the ground and there is considerable air space above it, there is perhaps 10 sq. ft. of area inside the wheels through which the dust current can pass, and the speed of this is probably not in excess of that of the car itself. Whereas, as is often the case in low hung voiturettes having tool boxes or silencing chambers coming near to the ground, this area is often reduced to 4 sq. ft., the speed of the current through this space is proportionately increased, and, according to the writer's observations, the tendency to dust raising is increased in much the same proportion.
There is an oil filter containing several sponges interposed at the point where the condensed water enters the water enters the water tank. The oil in the condensed water collects on these sponges, and they ought to be rinsed in petrol as soon as they are thoroughly coated with oil. If this is done the water in the tank keeps quite free from oil, but if neglected so that oil finds its way into the water tank, this should be occasionally scoured out and any oil wiped off. It is convenient to do this with a rag dipped in petrol, but in this case no light must be allowed near the tank. 

​The tapered extension is merely there to protect the squared end of the copper rod. The hole must be big enough to accommodate the clock key.

• You asked about the bushing down inside the water valve. Yes, I believe it is pressed in and not threaded. However, they don’t come out easy and are usually damaged when driven out. But if you need to remove it in order to see how it is made, feel free to do so. I believe the body of this little valve is slightly tapered so that it wedges in when reinstalled.
• I did not include the water valve needle and its special lock nut… here again I do not have a spare. I would have to take the one out of my car and send it to you which would put my car out of service. If you cannot get the specs on this needle in England, let me know. In that event I will remove the one from my car and make a drawing of it. You will also need the specs for the helical coil spring which holds the needle in place.
• Thread sizes on the front on the front and rear gland bodies are non-standard 5/8x20-TPI. I think this was done in order to provide for a very shallow angle when the mating surfaces squeeze the copper washer gasket. U.S industry for 5/8” is 18 TPI which should work ok. However, whenever I make anything for a White I strive to adhere to original specs as near as possible. Things just seem to work better!
• In all, there are three copper washer gaskets. One in each gland and one under the factory test thermometer well nut, another non standard thread….7/8”x20. An accurately calibrated thermometer was installed in this well temporarily. Once it registered the desired 399 degrees Celsius the needle was tapped in place at 12 O’clock on the car’s pyrometer. Then the thermometer was removed. Today some White owners keep a modern thermometer in the well. It is their “security blanket” I suppose. Personally, I’ve never felt the need for such since the car’s pyrometer works just fine once its dial hand is properly set. Besides, if one leaves the modern job in place, he forever has an unsightly hole in the floorboard…
• Another non standard thread size are the ones on the thermostat copper rod. Originally these were a #12-30TPI. The U.S industry size closest to that today is ¼”x28. I don’t know what thread Howell put on the rod he sent you. If I were making a new copper rod and new gland bodies, I would use the modern ¼”x28 threads.
• You mentioned that you intend to add some thickness to the casting for assed strength and this is a good idea. However, I must caution you the internal dimensions should not be changed too much. For instance, the copper rod just barely clears the thermometer well. So, if you add metal, I urge you to do so to the outside of the casting.

​

• About your tap & die problem: Did you not know that Mel Howell’s son, Nick Howell, has a fully functioning and operating machine shop? He can do anything and usually does it very well. Since he and his Dad have a bunch of Whites and have been playing with them for years, I should think they would know all about odd size taps & dies as used by White, including a source of supply (if any). I have restored four Whites and have been lucky in having most of the fittings needed. And I have a very reliable machinist here who is also my best friend. What few nuts and bolts I’ve needed he has set up his lathe and done them the hard way. He is at work just now, but I’ll call him this evening to see what he says about the ¾”x18 TPI you need. As for the big steam unions- I believe these are 1-1/4”x14 TPI. I’ll ask him about these too and put it at the end of this letter. Now as for the other things in your letters:

You mention that you will need to sell eight thermostat castings to break even and that “there are only that many left!” I think what you are forgetting is that the 1907 Models “H” and “G” used this same casting and so did the 1908 models “L” and “K”. According to my addition these come to a total of 21 existing cars. That’s still not a lot but a better number than 8. So, you may sell one or two more than you surmised. One chap I know who definitely needs one is Allen Blazick. Enclosed is a copy of my letter to him. His model “L” sits with a broken thermostat casting. Someone put a big wrench on the bottom fitting and twisted it off…
If I am correct (and I think I am), your father’s model “F” did not have any sort of running board aprons. All the pictures and old ads I’ve seen for the 1906 cars (note the magazine cover enclosed) show all the machinery exposed-a feature I rather enjoy. It’s rather nice to see some of a steam car’s interesting innards!
In 1907 leather aprons were installed but this proved to be a bad idea since they didn’t last long due to heat and weather, etc. So in 1908 metal aprons were installed. If you have them you are lucky.
About the asbestos insulation: Yes, indeed, there was oodles of it under the front seat and inside the steam generator compartment. I had to put all of this in my model “K” restoration and it was not one of my favourite chores. I’m 6’ 2” tall. Had the body sitting up on sawhorses. It wasn’t easy getting up in there to get the stuff attached satisfactorily and so it wouldn’t fall down. I had to improvise somewhat and did so on the old theory, “If a little bit is satisfactory then a whole lot must be better!” What’s more, I’m glad I went to the trouble involved since a lot of heat is generated. Your country is cooler but over here in the summertime the climate can get hot, in which case sitting in an envelope of heat is no fun at all…
I am enclosing samples of the materials I used. Of course, none of it is asbestos since that is a no-no these days. I do not know precisely what these materials are called but feel sure your local heating & furnace shop will be able to supply you with similar products. You will also need to obtain from him some insulation glue. This stuff helps hold the materials in place and will not ignite from heat even when dry. Then you will need some thin galvanised tin such as used by the furnace industry for air ducting. Lastly, you will need a bag of powered insulation material. This you mix with water and some of the glue. It’s like making mud pies when you were a boy. In fact, old time boiler room workers commonly referred to it as “mud”. This you use to fill up all the cracks and hard places to get at.
The woven cloth-like fabric enclosed is what I used on curved surfaces such as inside the generator housing, etc. The ½” thick pressed product is what I used on flat surfaces such as the sides of the body under the front seat, removable front seat panel etc. The bottom of the front seat is recessed. I installed the ½” pressed stuff into the recessed squares then covered it over with the thin black sheet, also enclosed. And I tacked this material all along the underside of the rear floorboards. On my car these boards sit exactly upon the chimney with almost no clearance. So, the black stuff was all I could get in between.
The pressed board, even though glued, tends to break up and fall away if not secured. For this I snipped out 3” diameter pieces of sheet metal and placed these here and there, using a tack to hold it onto the wood…plus lots of glue!
The woven fabric stuff tends to unravel while being worked with. Some chaps cut it to shape then has a seamstress sew along the edges. But this was a lot of trouble so I just used plenty of glue and went back over it with my fingers time and again, until it dried. For two days I was a mess…I put glue on anything an everything. And when it was all done I was very proud of the job. What’s more, it does what it is supposed to do!
In addition to being overpowering, my 55 pages of White info plus the Newsletters, comprise a rather large portion for one meal. I never intended it to go on so long. It just grew and grew as I recollected more and more information. My only reward is the fact I’ve helped get more Whites running than ever at any time since they were built. That’s all the reward I need. I’ll be interested in hearing your view on it all.
Joe Ersland’s White meet was just what Lynda and I expected- small but fun. Even if no one else had shown up I would have been satisfied at just visiting Joe’s warehouses. But about twenty White owners did show up and we had some delightful bull sessions. There were five Whites running. One little 1901 Stanhope, one 1904 rear entrance model “D”, two 1910 model “00’s”, and my 1908 model “K”. So, despite the fact it was a small meet, that’s still more Whites all running at the same time than I’d ever seen previously. Most important of all, the meet was Fun. Good food, good weather, good cars, good people, and good fun. What else is there?
Good News!
I just called my machinist friend and asked him about those taps and dies. He got out his catalogues and quickly ascertained you can buy just about any tap or die you need and at reasonable prices. Well, almost reasonable.
For example, a ¾”x18 plug tap is $13.55. To go with it you would need a bottoming tap the same size and it is also $13.55, plus shipping, of course. He also looked up the prices for the big steam union nuts, 1 ¼”x14 (or so I think-better double check this). Price was $33.17 each for the two same type taps. I asked him what a “plug” tap is. He said it is not the same as an ordinary pointed tap and is designed to work in a shallow hole. Then the “bottoming” tap finishes the job. And they also have in stock all the various dies you will need.
There is no point in my ordering these things for you since I don’t know the exact sizes you will need. So, I obtained the name of the company for you. They are:
J&L Industrial Supply Company
19339 Glenmore
Detroit, Michigan
48240
I have just re-read your letters to see if I have missed anything. I did not.
One other thing: If the day ever comes when you need to disassemble the steam generator coils you will discover the threads on the fittings on top are also non standard. And some of these are left hand thread. Lots of guys don’t know how to get these unions of those big steam unions apart when they are stuck. Take a big hammer on one side and rap sharply with a small hammer on the other, then repeat all around. Also, soak with a mixture of kerosene and light oil. The kerosene penetrates even the smallest crack, taking the oil with it. If you tap long enough, pretty soon the union will come apart. If all else fails, try adding some heat with a torch. Do it in such a way that you expand the nut rather than the fitting inside. If everything fails then you must hacksaw the nut or union lengthwise, splitting it open. This is better than twisting off the end of the pipe or breaking a delicate casting (such as a throttle and thermostat).
Best Regards
Dick Hempel

This twofold duty is accomplished by very simple means, and the results that have been obtained there from are extraordinarily satisfactory. To those accustomed to the Serpollet boiler on the one hand, and to the fire-tube boiler used in steam cars of the usual type on the other, the absence of attention that is required by the driver of a White Car to either his fuel supply or water supply is very astonishing, and the entire immunity from trouble caused by dirty water or by the entrance of oil into the boiler is truly remarkable, and was demonstrated very clearly by the marvellous freedom from stoppages of any kind shown by the two cars entered for the Automobile Club's Reliability Trials. The simplest way of describing the White car is to say that as regards general arrangement it does not differ very widely from the ordinary type of American built steam car, so far as the position of the machinery is concerned. 

The boiler or generator is placed in a central position just behind and below the driver's seat, has a water tank immediately behind it, and supplies steam to a vertical engine placed in front of it; this is pivoted at its upper end, so that the crankshaft or lower end is free to swing, and so adjusts itself to maintain a constant distance between the crankshaft and the driving axle, and thus to maintain an approximately equal driving tension on the driving chain. The petrol tank extends across the vehicle under the footboard, and a condenser is fitted right across the front of the vehicle. The usual Ackerman steering gear, actuated by a lever, is employed. The boiler is fired by a burner which, in principle, does not differ in any important respects from the class of burner employed by the Locomobile and other American cars. So far it will be thus seen that, in the general arrangement of parts, there is no great difference between the White car and the type of American steam car with which we are so familiar, except in the very important particular that in nearly every respect the various parts are of increased size, strength, and solidity. It is when we come to the details of the boiler and of the automatic devices which control the fuel and water supply, in the condenser, and in the feed water filtering appliances, that we find striking differences. 

​Taking these in order-the boiler consists of twelve flat coils, each of them consisting of a flat spiral with the inner and outer ends turned up at right angles to the plane of the spiral. The turned up portion of each coil is of sufficient length so that it extends to the top of the boiler, which consists of a group of twelve of these coils superposed one on the other. It follows that, as the boiler is about 13" diameter and 14" high, each of the coils is about 13" diameter, and the upright tubes of the lower coil are about 14" long, while those of the upper coil are only about 2" long. These twelve coils are connected at the top by cross connections, so that they form one continuous tube, having a total length of about 360ft. These connections are by screwed joints and are at the top, i.e., the coolest part of the boiler, and all of them are very accessible. 

The water coming in from the feed pump enters at the top coil. After filling it, it has to pass up through the short length of vertical pipe which connects it with the next coil, and so on with each coil in turn. It follows that when all the coils are filled, any number of the lower tubes can be blown off in turn, whilst those above them cannot empty themselves, as the water is trapped in the coils by these vertical lengths of pipe. At first starting, the boiler requires to be filled by a hand pump, but afterwards, every time the boiler cools down, it automatically fills itself from the tank, so that it is always ready for use whenever it is required to get up steam. 

The steam of this boiler is uniformly superheated to a temperature of 800 degrees Fahr., and this is carried out in a very simple way. The Steam, on its way from the lowest coil to the engine, passes right across the centre of the fire through a thermostat, which, by the expansion of two metals when the temperature of the lower coil reaches 800 degrees Fahr., is arranged to press on and actuate the end of a lever which closes the petrol admission valve of the main burner. Thus, as soon as the temperature of the steam passing through the above-mentioned thermostat arrangement reaches 800 degrees, the fire is automatically shut off, and the sub-burner only continues to burn. On the other hand, a fresh demand for steam causing steam to be drawn in increased quantity through the thermostat again turns on the fire, and the temperature is thus maintained constant. 

The water supply to the boiler is also automatic. It consists of a diaphragm regulating the supply, actuated by the steam pressure, and which can be adjusted in such a manner that so long as the steam pressure is below 220lb. the feed pump drives the whole of its water supply into the boiler. This full supply of feedwater causes additional coils to fill with water, and hence the steam pressure rises, but when the steam pressure reaches the above limit of 225lb. the diaphragm regulator opens the valve of the bypass, and the water no longer passes to the boiler, but is returned to the water tank. 

It will be seen that this water regulator is positive in its action, does not depend on a mere weighted by-pass valve being lifted by the pump, but the steam pressure itself opens and continues to hold open the by-pass until the steam pressure again falls to the specified point at which it is desired to feed water into the boiler. 

From this description it will be understood that the combination of the semi-flash boiler with the twofold regulation of the thermostat, maintaining the temperature constant at 800 degrees Fahr. with the water regulator, which only feeds the water when the steam pressure is below a fixed limit, is the chief feature of the White car, for from this combination arises the extraordinary fact that the steam engine is supplied at all pressures with steam at a constant temperature, so high as to prevent any cylinder condensation taking place. 

Now it is well known to engineers that the chief cause why small steam engines are so uneconomical, and therefore compare so unfavourably in economy with the internal combustion engine, is that the cooling surface exposed by the small cylinders is so large in proportion to their cubic capacity that the initial condensation, which represents sheer waste of steam, is very large as compared with engines of greater size, where the surfaces exposed do not bear such a high proportion to the cubic capacity. But if the steam is superheated to a temperature at which we can make certain that no cylinder condensation takes place, it is possible not only to get high economy with the small engines used in motor-cars, but the complication of compound or triple-expansion engines becomes unnecessary, and very high economy of steam consumption is obtained in the simplest possible manner. 

Mr. White claims that careful testing in America, when the cars have been jacked up and the engine has been used to drive dynamo machinery belted from the hind wheels, has shown that the engines use about half the steam that is used when steam is not superheated. 

Putting it roughly for purposes of comparison, during recent American official trials the petrol consumption of the White steam cars was only 30 per cent. greater than that of the very best internal combustion cars, and was practically equal to that of average internal combustion cars. 

Another fact arises from this small consumption of steam, that it is an easy matter to condense the whole of the steam produced by the White Car. All those who are familiar with the running of the White car know that it is very rare indeed that any exhaust steam is seen escaping from these cars; and, moreover, the water tank, which only contains fourteen gallons of water, is in most cases sufficient to run the car one hundred miles without a fresh supply of water, and in extreme cases as much as 140 miles. 

Summarising, in the White steam car we have quiet running and freedom from the noise, vibration and smell which we generally associate with the best steam cars, but we have in addition the high economy and long radius of action, without refilling water or fuel, which we associate with internal combustion cars . The fact, also, that no exhaust of any kind is allowed to blow on the road, and that the car is built with considerable clearance from the ground, enables it to be run at a considerably higher speed than is possible with other cars without raising dust, so that it is probable that as regards freedom from dust raising it is almost the best car that the writer has yet seen. 

The writer has driven one of these cars for 3,000 miles, and has found it not only remarkably free from troubles of any kind, but exceedingly pleasant to drive. The driving, moreover, as will be seen later, is easily learnt by unskilled persons. 

(To be concluded.)

January 28th 1989 

Covered in this Issue- Flitch plates/Sill boards, Model L Flue/Chimney, Model L thermostat, Pyrometers.
​
Dear Robert,
I must confess that I am utterly delighted to receive your December 29th message with plea for help. In reading your words it is obvious you and your family are, indeed, dedicated to the steam hobby. I take my hat off to you, for you have taken on some mighty tough projects. For, of all the various makes of antique autos, The White Steam Car is by far the most difficult to comprehend, restore, tune up, and then operate as only it can in the hands of a capable owner. Which is why there are so few Whites being driven in the fullest sense of the word, driven. Your background in the field of diagnostics and interpretation of symptoms will serve you well, but I daresay will be challenged by your model “L”. In all the world there are perhaps eight men who truly have a handle on what makes a White tick.
Let me say right off that I do not consider myself to be a steam car expert. But I have been tinkering with them for well over forty years. Whatever level of knowledge I may possess comes from making every mistake in the books plus a few not in any books and have the burn scars to prove it. I will do my level best to try to help you from afar, not always an easy task. In an effort to make a start I have taken the pages of your letter and numbered each question you ask. My replies will have corresponding numbers.

1. The term “Flitch Plate” is a term I’ve not heard. Just for fun I looked it up in the dictionary. The first definition says “A cut of meat salted and cured sliced from the back of a hog.” It seemed unlikely that this is what you were talking about so I checked the next definition. It made reference to Laminated Wood….I finally figured out that you are talking about what we call a “sill board”----that piece of wood which sits on top the chassis and upon which sits the car body. (I got a hearty chuckle out of all this and hope you do too.) In any case, that board is important and needs to be installed on your “L”. I had to fabricate them for my model “K”. I used a piece of medium but not hard wood, cut and trimmed to the proper length. It looks like this:

​The two sills butt up against the wooden dash on my “K” and will butt against the dashboard on your “L”. They run back to the rear edge of the frame rails and overhang there too. Then a crosswise sill runs between them, also rounded on its back edge. The sills serve a secondary usage. If you install the leather aprons, the little metal snap or twist type fasteners are screwed into the rounded edge. Without the sill one has no place to screw in these fasteners.
 
If the body you have is made right its rear end should just exactly sit over the frame rear cross member. What I do not understand is why you are not able to set the body on the chassis frame rails and have it line up with the body hold down carriage bolt holes. Of course if you replaced bad wood with new wood then the holes are no longer there for a reference. But I say again the body rails should butt against the dashboard at front, and then the rear edge of the body should be even with the rear frame cross member. If the body you have won’t sit on the frame in this fashion then it is either too long or too short for the frame as the case may be. At this distance I can’t help you if that is the problem.

​

1. Not having ever worked on a model “L” I am not sure just how far back the chimney should extend. On my car there is a tool storage box under the rear seat. The Chimney extends to the bottom rear edge of this box. I should think you can tell where it goes on your car by crawling under the body and checking. I do know for sure the chimney does not run all the way back to the heat exit screen. I’m making a copy of your letter for a fine, kindly gentleman who has an “L” and has been all through it. He will be in a better position than I to answer your specific “L” questions. His name is Jim Weidenhammer.
2. I think it is unlikely anyone over here would know about the history of your car. There is no reference to it in Andy Ott’s White Steam Roster, (All addresses later) Nor is there a reference to your father’s model “F”. Those of who have an interest in keeping track of all existing Whites know that there are a few in Europe but do not know who the owners are. I suggest you write to Ott for a copy of the Roster. He will accept a small donation since he put a lot of work in the Roster. About $10 U.S.
3. Now as for your lists of “wants”…..

 
Item #1 I do not happen to have the 0-1200PSI, angle mount type White Steam Gauge. Here again I am sending copies of your letter to those I think may have one. A lot of those who junked out a White years ago seemed to have saved the gauges, perhaps for sentimental or other reasons. They show up every now and then at the big auto swap meet (flea market) in Hershey, Pennsylvania, first weekend in October. Just be patient and we shall see whether the copies of your letter produce any results.
 
Item #2 The thermostat for your “L” functions in the same manner as the one used on later models but has different dimensions. And the threaded fittings come off at dissimilar elevations. It would be better if you can get the correct type. And there are many small parts and pieces that go with the thermostat casting, all of which you will need. And even if you do find one chances are it will be unsafe. These ancient cast iron castings are often brittle or cracked from freezing. What some of us have done is cut the control box off and mate it to steel tubing of the proper size, the pieces of which are carefully welded together to the same dimensions as the original casting. Some machining of the threaded fittings is required, of course. When done one has a much stronger and safer thermostat. All the White threads are non-standard in the U.S.A today, a fact which you have perhaps already discovered. But any competent machinist can set up to duplicate them.
 
 I have here a complete model “L” thermostat with all fittings. It is cracked and not usable. If you had it on your bench you could see what you will need to duplicate. But I am reluctant to part with it since it is the same as used on my model “K” and I want to keep it for its spare parts value.
 
I surely want to help you all I can. Supposing I were to send it to you and it got lost? Or maybe some damn fool customs Inspector thought it was a home-made bomb! Fact is, I would hate to lose the thing for whatever reason. I’ll have to do some further thinking on this matter because, without a complete thermostat you are no place…….I also have a broken spare thermostat but with a good control box that I am willing to give you. You will at least have that much when you start welding up one out of steel tubing.

​Item #3 The pyrometer gauges are very hard to find. One White owner over here has been to Hershey for years and years, as well as other auto swap meets. Never did find one. He is now setting up to have one made. Perhaps you could go in with him and thereby offset some of his expenses by having two made instead of one. His name is Allen Blazick.
 
Item #4 I do not have a fuel filter spare. Here again we will need to rely upon the copies of your letter I am sending out. There is a man (Joe Ersland) who has owned and still owns many Whites. If anyone has some of these parts it will be he. In May, 1989, Joe is sponsoring a White Steam Car Meet. I plan to take the “K” down to his place for this event. If you are coming to the U.S. it would be nice if you could attend this event. If not this, then plan to be over here during the Hershey Swap Meet. Needless to say you and yours would be most welcome out here too. We have a fine old Victorian farm house and plenty of spare bedrooms.
 
Item #5 Here again I ran into the language barrier. What we call here as a “hood” is what you refer to as a “bonnet”. For a time I was confused. Then it dawned on me that you were referring to is what we call a “top”! Your chances of locating one to fit the Roi des Belge body run from nil to zero. Those bodies were custom built, which applies to the “top” as well. You will have to do as I did with the “K” and have the assembly made up. There is a chap down in California who is the last man on earth to fabricate top fittings, sockets and he has a friend who makes the wooden bows. His name is Ron Brown. He will not start on a job unless you send him the precise specifications. To get those you will need to consult with Jim Weidenhammer. I believe his “L” has a top. If we can talk him into taking the measurements, then you will be in good shape to tell Mr. Brown what to make.

​Item #6 I’ve been in the antique car hobby a long time but have never heard of a Stepney rim. I have read that some of the Whites sent to England were equipped with various items of English manufacture. I suspect this is the case here. That is something you will need to find on your own, or so I think. There was a chap in Springfield, Ohio who made steel rims. I think he is out of business.
 
Item #7 Speedometers are a real headache. You can use a modern cable and cable housing by simply machining the fittings to fit the threads on the speedometer and geardrive…But the geardrive itself, the bracket it mounts on, and its little fibre gear, are the real challenge. Some geardrives are 1 to 1; some are 1 ½ to 1; some are 2 to 1, etc., etc., depending upon what ratio your Jones calls for. Not only that but the fibre gear must have the right number of teeth and be of the right pitch for the metal wheel gear. Otherwise the speedo will not read correctly. It is all tied in with the number of revolutions per mile the car’s wheel makes.
 
It also has to do with the O.D of the tyre. I’ve been all through this several times and with several antique cars. Believe me when I tell you that getting a speedo rigged and reading correctly is one of the most difficult of all antique auto restoration chores. Do you subscribe to Hemming’s Motor News? It has ads by various specialty craftsmen. In past years I know I’ve seen speedometer repairs offered. But you need to be sure you are getting in touch with a shop that does the very old types (pre 1916) and not one that works on the more modern types.
 
Item #8 I am enclosing a list of names of all those who own a car like yours whom I think might be willing to assist you. There is no point in my sending along addresses of cars sitting in museums because they wouldn’t know how to help you in the first place.
 
Your late model fan bracket has some trade value--- especially with Joe Ersland who accumulates any and all White parts he can. And he loves to trade. And if it is the big size bracket that fits the 1909-10, 40 horse power cars, I know he’ll want it.
 
It’s just too darn bad I am retired. For many years I was an international airline Captain for Trans World Airlines (TWA). I made many, many trips into London and enjoyed each and every layover there. Well, those days are gone forever. I do still have a lifetime pass and my sweet wife Lynda has been bugging me to take a trip someplace. Maybe we shall make it over there but who knows when?
 
Here are some names for you:
 
James A. Weidenhammer, New York- Owns a 1908 Model “L”, has had it all apart, and has driven it many a mile. He can help you with top (“hood”) dimensions, chimney length, and sill board info.
 
Andrew A. Ott, Virginia- Is restoring a 1910, 20HP, model “0-0” White. Publishes White Steamer Roster just for the fun of it. Send him data on your and you’re father’s Whites.
 
Allen R. Blazick, California- Is trying to acquire one each for every year Stanley. Also owns an “L” like yours and a 1907 model “G” runabout. Has about 20 steamers in all! He is the man who is considering making a Pyrometer.
 
Glenn Weatherford, Texas- Is an expert woodworker by hobby. Has built an exact duplicate body for an “L”. Also for an “F” and, I think for other models too. He is a good friend of Ersland. Weatherford also owns a model “L” like yours.
 
R.J. Gurney, California- I include his name because he owns a 1906 Model “F” like your dad’s. It is one of the few good running "Early Regulation" Whites. He drives it like a juvenile delinquent!
 
Joe Ersland, Oklahoma- I don’t know how many Whites Joe has. Must be a dozen. At one time he had lots of spare parts but they are thinning out. May have 0-1200psi angle mount gauge. Ask him, Tell him about your fan bracket. Ask him about a thermostat for an “H”, “L”, “G”, or “K” as they are all the same type. Also ask him about the fuel filter, pyrometer, etc.
 
Mr Hayes, Ohio- This is the man who used to manufacture steel rims for antique cars. He is old now and I don’t know if he is still in business.
 
Ron Brown, California- This is the man who fabricates “top” hardware, sockets, and wooden bows. Tell him you need a five-bow top and send him all the dimensions you can come up with. He will need to know the radius of the curve on the wooden bows. Send him a photocopy of the hardware & sockets out of your parts book.
 
Paul Carter, Vancouver, Canada- Owns a model “L” but seldom drives it on tours. Nice man though. I’ve not seen his car but am told it is an excellent original.
 
Bruce Green, Tennessee- Just acquired a 1907 model “H” which is very similar to your car. Is a good machinist and has played with Stanleys for many years.
 
Melvin Howell, California- This man has several 1909-10 Whites and some spare parts. He may have some of the items you need. Also owns the only other “K” in existence (besides mine). A big Town car.
 
Dennis Brook-West Yorkshire- Do you know this man? I haven’t heard from him in quite a while. He has owned a White and perhaps other steamers too.
 
It’s now very late. I’ll get this in the mail tomorrow. Later on I’ll send you some technical data on White that I’m sure you will find better than a sleeping pill. I wrote it myself and if you can read it without falling asleep you have great stamina.
 
In proof reading this I see I should have suggested you also mention to Ersland that you have an early regulation type of thermostat. It has some trade value and you might not need it although your Dad may want to keep it as a spare. Your choice…
 
Here is an important address I almost forgot:
 
Ole Vikre, Massachusetts- This man bought out the remains of the Crosby-Ashton gauge works and does a fine job of rebuilding White and Stanley gauges. He may be building a Pyrometer for Allen Blazick- I don’t know. He is a fine machinist and fully capable of making a Pyrometer. May be able to locate an angle mount pressure gauge for you. Can also install bevel edge glass in gauge bezels…
 
Since typing this I’ve learned you have already contact Jim Crank, the Howells, and others. That’s good!
 
Keep Your pressure up!
 
Kindest Regards
 
Dick Hempel